Category Archives: DIY General

Achieving a simple yet professional looking finish – Part Two

Part Two: Iron on veneer on MDF cabinets

If a black textured finish is not your style (see part one), keep on reading as we delve into an option that you may have previously considered a desirable but more specialist finish. In part two we show you how to achieve the popular real wood veneer finish. In the accompanying photos, you’ll notice an LSK M3 mini speaker kit being used as an example.

Usually, veneering is a specialist process that requires considerable skill. If you’ve already had some insight into veneering, you may have formed the opinion that it is out of your reach to produce a flawless result. Here we present a more accessible veneer option that offers the novice the potential to achieve a desirable result. The key with our method is to use an iron on veneer where each sheet already contains heat-activated adhesive. With due care, an excellent finish is within reach.

First, we’ve listed below the tools you’ll require to complete the process. Notice that some tools are optional while the necessary tools are easily accessible to everyone (image 1).

Veneer finish blog image 1

Tools required:

  • iron on veneer
  • iron
  • sand paper (120 grit)
  • sanding block
  • orbital sander with 120 grit paper (optional)
  • ear muffs & dust mask (if using sander)
  • masking tape
  • straight edge
  • cutting knife
  • scissors
  • cardboard
  • filler (if required)
  • baking paper
  • rotary cutting tool (optional)

Step 1: sanding and filling
As we mentioned in part one, MDF has a waxy surface coating which should be sanded down prior to painting to ensure adequate adhesion of the veneer. In addition, during the construction process, especially where clamps have not been used, the panels might not line up perfectly. It’s in this first step that this should be resolved by sanding and/or filling.

Gaps in the joins can also be present due to inadequate pressure during the construction process (image 2). Even with veneer covering, it may be worth filling these gaps, even though it is less critical than with a painted surface. If you are sanding uneven edges, don’t be deterred if you are not in possession of an orbital sander such as the one used in the photo (image 3) because a sanding block is also effective.

Veneer finish blog image 2

You can check the surface of your cabinet is flat by using a straight edged object such as a ruler (image 4). In particular, pay attention to the joins because the veneer won’t conform very well to sharp changes at butt joins. If the surface is already adequately flat, then you may simply sand off the waxy surface coating by hand with a block (image 5).

Veneer finish blog image 3

Step 2: choosing your veneering layout

It’s now time to decide how you want to wrap your veneer. If you’re going to use a grille with your speaker, then you may want to run the veneer so that it wraps from the sides across the top. As the grille will cover the front, you will want to pay attention to the visible edges. If there is no grille, then you may still do it the same way, or you may prefer to wrap from the front baffle around to the top. It’s a matter of personal preference. In this guide, we wrap from the sides across the top (image 6).

Veneer finish blog image 4

Step 3: cutting the veneer

Lay out the veneer and mark out the cuts you require from the measurements of your cabinet. Ensure that your measurements allow the veneer to overhang each edge by at least 5mm. The veneer shrinks in the heating process and the sheet will also move slightly, so adequate margin for error and shrinkage is required. Use cardboard to protect your work surface and cut with a sharp blade and straight edge (image 7).

It’s a good idea to use masking tape over where you will make the cuts, especially for those that are across the grain but also for those with the grain. Not only does the masking tape provide a surface you can mark with a pen, it also helps assist you in achieving a neat cut. Be aware that it’s more difficult when cutting perpendicular to the grain as the veneer can split. When cutting with the grain, the veneer may tend to cut at a different angle than desired. Ensure that you cut with multiple passes. Don’t attempt to cut all the way through at first – the first pass is to score the cutting line only (image 8).

Veneer finish blog image 5

Step 4: ironing on the first sheet

First, check that sheets will wrap correctly (image 9). The order you choose to iron on each sheet depends on the wrapping and also the edge treatment. Generally we recommend applying the back first and the front last. Ensure you follow through with Steps 4 and 5 for one sheet before proceeding on to the next.

It’s important to ensure that your work surface is free of dust and the iron is set to the cotton setting. Before beginning the ironing phase, you will need to place baking paper in between the iron and veneer. Position the first sheet carefully before placing the baking paper on top. The paper moderates the heat and avoids burning the veneer. The paper can be left out if you are careful with the application of heat.

Start in one spot and then work from there with the iron (image 10). It’s important to ensure adequate heat is applied. The adhesive on the underside of the sheet is heat activated – without adequate heat it will not reach melting point and a strong bond will not be achieved.

Veneer finish blog image 6

The surface should be hot enough that it is not easy to touch. After the entire surface is flat, check the edges. You should see a little glue oozing which confirms that adhesion has occurred all around the edge. Apply follow up pressure of the entire surface with a block (image 11).

Now check that full adhesion has occurred over the entire sheet. You can check the edges by gently pressing upwards (image 12). Be aware that the initial hold immediately after ironing, as the adhesive cools, is not very strong, so you should wait until the sheet starts to cool. Run your fingers over the surface. If there are points where adhesion has not occurred, you will hear a change in the sound of your fingers running over the veneer. If you find a lack of adhesion at any point, you can simply re-activate the adhesive by applying heat again and repeating the process.

Veneer finish blog image 7

Step 5: trimming the edges

Each time you apply a sheet to one side, the edges should be trimmed shortly after. Allow enough time for the adhesive to cool down first though. Depending on the amount of overlap, you might like to trim it back with scissors or tin snips. Care is needed to avoid lifting the veneer at the edges. Shown in image 13 is an example of how not to cut the veneer.

It might seem harmless enough, but cutting in this way will often pull up the veneer at the edge and result in the need for repair. The correct way to cut a veneer edge places the top scissor blade horizontal, in constant contact with the veneer. Only the bottom scissor blade should rotate. Use the thumb to press the top down to ensure contact is maintained.

Once you get fairly close to the edge, sand paper on a block can be used. It’s important to sand in a direction that will not lift the edges or cause damage (image 14). As shown, sand at an angle but stop short of the corner, where the direction shown would cause the corner of the veneer to splinter away. At the corner, ensure you sand in the opposite direction (image 15).

Paper with a grit of 120 is recommended. A coarser grit will get the job done quicker but at the risk of damage. Another good alternative is 180 grit. However, be aware that a finer grit will take longer. Steps 4 and 5 are to be repeated for each sheet. The order we used in this guide:

  1. Back
  2. Bottom
  3. Side – right
  4. Top
  5. Side – left
  6. Front baffle

Veneer finish blog image 8

Step 6: creating the terminal and driver cut outs

Now we need to cut holes in the veneer where the speaker components will be inserted. With a blade, make a hole in the middle of all driver, port and terminal cut outs (image 16). The terminal cut outs are not so critical as the edge is not seen, however it’s still preferable to do neat work here. After most of the cutting is done, sand paper does the rest (image 17). Greater care is warranted on the driver cut outs that will be seen (image 18).

Veneer finish blog image 9

Aim to get as close as you can to the edges to minimise sanding (image 19). Here you may like to use a blade. Sanding the driver cut out by hand is shown in image 20. You may wish to trim with a rotary cutting tool as these get the job done quicker but be aware that this process is more likely to cause damage, so greater skill and care are required (image 21). The final result is pictured in image 22.

Veneer finish blog image 10

Some extra tips:

  • Stain can be applied as a next step, but often a clear varnish gives a more natural result.
  • The colour of the veneer will change after varnishing.
  • Consider using a grain filler if you want to achieve a smoother finish.
  • A clear satin varnish is the best all round option.
  • High gloss varnishes tend to expose minor flaws.

Shop now for LSK Speakers Kits | Read Part One

“Better value with a DIY project”

Geoff’s DIY Speaker Project – Part I

Audio enthusiast Geoff was looking for the perfect speakers for his listening room. After researching his options, he decided DIY was the most cost-effective and flexible option. Join him on his DIY journey!

DIY AUDIO SECRETS: Tell us about your project and why you chose to DIY…

GEOFF: We have a large listening/living room which is about 16m x 8m with 4m ceilings and L-shaped.  The current stereo setup, with small studio monitors and sub doesn’t really have enough “oomph” to fill the space, although it still sounds good.

After looking at various retail store options, I decided that (1) I don’t like black and (2) the store solutions were very expensive, i.e. over $2,000 to get something that sounds good. I then looked up ‘DIY speakers’ and found that you can get much better value with a DIY project, if you aren’t too ambitious and use a proven design.

I visited LSK (The Loudspeaker Kit) with some favourite CDs for an audition and decided that I prefer paper drivers to aluminium (not used in LSK kits but there was an all-aluminium speaker on demo). At the time of the visit LSK did not have a kit which would have been suitable for our space, although the new F6 Floorstanding Speaker Kit would have been an option*.

DIY AUDIO SECRETS: So where did your design come from?

GEOFF: After much ‘Googling’ I ended up at a well known US mail order website and asked the designer of one of its speaker kits if it would work in our room. He has been extremely helpful and suggested I look at one of his new designs which feature a “Mass Loaded Transmission Line” cabinet with an MTM configuration.

The drivers [used in my project] are high quality Dayton Audio RS180P-8 paper/fibre mid-woofers and Morel CAT378 soft dome tweeters. Drivers, crossover parts, vent tubes, speaker feet, grille kit, binding posts and wire were all from LSK: taking postage, exchange rate and, most importantly, local support into account this was by far the best purchase option.

DIY AUDIO SECRETS: What about listening to the speakers before you buy?

GEOFF: No Hi-Fi stores have a listening room like ours and in any case would not let you buy ‘on approval’. I was happy to take advice from the designer and we had many friendly email discussions. 

DIY AUDIO SECRETS: So how is the project coming together?

GEOFF: My local electronics shop assembled the crossovers for me and the cabinets are being made for us by a family contact from veneered and stained 18mm MDF. Drivers are recessed.

NB: if you’re looking to make MDF cabinets instead of buying a kit, I found only two firms in Melbourne which would cut to size due to OH&S concerns. Also, there are only one or two firms who will make speaker cabinets; not one kitchen/office/home cabinet maker would touch them.

 Stay tuned for part II and project images!

Do you have a DIY audio experience to share? Have you found similar barriers to having your own cabinets made, and what did you do to overcome them? Tell us your story by emailing [email protected]!

*LSK’s F6 Floorstanding Speaker Kit is now available.

Why DIY? 5 reasons to build your own speakers!

In this impatient, fast-paced world, everything seems mass produced, poorly made and on-demand. Quality sound can’t be defined by these contemporary boundaries but high-end costs make this dream seem out of reach for many. It doesn’t have to be this way. DIY is your answer.

1. Achieve high fidelity sound at a more affordable rate
Hi-fi products typically come with a luxury price tag. The DIY trend enables you to bypass commercial assembly and finishing, saving on manufacturing and production costs. Of course, in theory you can spend as much or as little as you want on your build project but your focus should be on obtaining quality components, in particular speaker drivers and crossover components. This way your sound quality will be kept high while the main cost of construction and finishing will be your spare time.

2. Build and sound quality is up to you
There’s nothing more frustrating than buying a complete product and hauling it home only to find it doesn’t deliver what it promised on the box or it has a manufacturing abnormality or defect. With a DIY audio project, the quality of your finished product relies on your discretion with selecting premium, compatible components from reputable suppliers and also on the care you take with your workmanship. Depending on your budget, you may wish to hire someone to design and construct your speaker cabinets, but you need to be mindful that it can be tough and expensive to find knowledgeable and willing professionals. However, if you have the right tools, this is completely unnecessary given the online support, advice and templates available. Then again, even if you don’t have these tools available, you can make use of the many quality speaker kits which can be purchased with pre-cut MDF and all the compatible internal components you’ll need.

3. Create a unique end product 
Whether the complete design or just the finishing is up to you, you have the potential to create something personal and individual that breaks the mass-produced mould. Of course, you may choose a gloss feel to replicate high-end tastes, or go wild with new crazes like sticker or photo bombing. Then again, there’s endless finishing options available to satisfy your style and budget, including but not limited to painting, staining or veneer. When it comes to the final steps, you can achieve a well executed finish for an affordable price or go for a deluxe veneer for a premium price. How much or how little you spend is entirely up to you, but we’re sure you’ll be surprised at how much cheaper it is to DIY when you look at the cost of comparable finished products.

4. The satisfaction of building something yourself
At the end of the day, there’s something grand about being able to say, “I made that.” You can bask in silent satisfaction or let it be a brag point at your next home movie night or party where you’ll no doubt hear from your audience a resounding, “That sound is amazing – where did you get those speakers?” The satisfaction that comes from building a quality product with your own two hands is hard to surpass. The added bonus is that you can secretly smirk over the fact that achieving hi-fi sound didn’t break the bank. You can think about your next audio project while you count the savings in your pocket.

5. It’s easier than you might think
With DIY becoming increasingly popular you won’t find yourself short of helpful advice and support. One of the best online sources for audio and, in particular, audio DIY is StereoNET. No doubt most people will have had some experience with flat-pack furniture or kitchens (IKEA anyone?) so if you’re considering starting your first project, why not look into purchasing a loudspeaker kit? Kits from LSK provide you with all the quality components you’ll need to build a loudspeaker (minus the veneer/finishing materials and tools) as well as written guides and video tutorials to support you along the way. Whether you’re looking to kickstart your DIY audio hobby or you’re an expert in the field, there are plenty of options out there for you to challenge yourself with. What’s more, most of the DIY audio enthusiasts out there are more than willing to share their tips and advice with you to help you along the way, and all they’ll ask in return is for you to share your build experience with them. Documenting your progress and sharing your project photos are a must!

So, what are you waiting for? Try DIY.